If the theme of my trip was the kindness and graciousness extended to me by friends, then Sunday would be the encore. Thanks to a few emails by Leah to her network of Basque friends and family, I was greeted at the bus station by Imanol, a friend of a friend of a friend. We headed directly to the Museo Guggenheim Bilbao, Frank Gehry’s masterpiece and a building I have always wanted to see since it was built in 1997. We spent a fair amount of time walking around the outside while I snapped many photos and tried not to get a neck ache from looking up at this incredible structure. As luck would have it, there was an extensive Frank Lloyd Wright exhibit, which Ima and I enjoyed immensely. We saw some of the permanent exhibit, but ran out of time to see everything, as Ima had made lunch reservations at a restaurant in Bakio. At this point, I had already come to the conclusion that the Spanish, and the Basque in particular, have their priorities straight when it comes to food and wine. Everything I had eaten and drank since arriving in Spain had been fantastic. But the multi-course meal at Eneperi, a restaurant perched on the cliff over-looking the Atlantic, was the topper and easily the best meal I have had in some time. We started with grilled langostinas and a foie dish that was the perfect blend of textures and tastes. For the main course, we each had a local fish and swapped dishes – both very different and both excellent. While waiting for dessert, the server brought a complimentary dessert taster that involved a shooter of patzaran, crème fraiche, and some other flavor that is escaping my memory now – suffice to say, it was incredible. Unfortunately, I resisted the urge to take pictures of each course we ate! There was just enough light after dinner to enjoy the view from outside the restaurant before meeting Leah’s cousin for a drink nearby. Then it was back to the airport, where Isidoro, the link between Leah and Ima, met us to say hello. I’m pretty sure I’ve never had the privilege of two lovely Basque men to keep me company while waiting for a flight before.

Words really can't describe the generosity and graciousness that was bestowed upon me by a virtual stranger while in Bilbao. I’m not sure what I did to be so lucky to be the recipient of such hospitality and only hope I can return the favor some day.

I returned to London for one final day and a beautiful one it was. I met up with the owner of Cycle Chic (cool cycling accessories, check them out at: www.cyclechic.co.uk) to talk bike stuff and swap a helmet for Leah, which also provided a good excuse to meander around Hackney a bit. My final evening on vacation was appropriately spent with friends – Shane and Caron – at their local pub in Bounds Green, enjoying good beer, cheer, and company.

--- Museo Guggenheim Bilbao ---

--- the view from Restaurante Eneperi ---